by The WineWench

You can visit vineyards on both the north and south forks of Long Island in the same day. Vineyard to vineyard the trip is only about an hour. But in spite of being a native — or perhaps because of it — I prefer to think of them as separate spaces. They seem to have different characters, the north relaxed and homey, the south seductive and stylish.

Although both shores’ wineries share grapes from many of the same vines, the full experience of your trip can be completely different. It seems each year I go back to visit my mom, I gravitate in one direction or the other, but that might just be the Gemini in me. Try one. And when you’re feeling a little bit to the contrary, come back and try the other. It’s the best of both worlds.





The South Fork — How the Other Half Drinks
On the south shore the scrub pine is close, dense. Unpaved roads twist off of the main thoroughfares, leading off to hidden houses, hidden lives. Unexpected breaks in the road expose the bay and the ocean, sometimes right at the roadside. These are the famous Hamptons — buy a pair of dark sunglasses and live like a media mogul for a weekend.

If shopping is a priority for your holiday, the towns of Bridgehampton and Southampton should provide ample fodder. In addition to upscale national labels, you’ll find a lot of quirky boutiques, galleries and restaurants. The more shopping you want to do, the better off you’ll be going in the high season between Memorial Day and Labor Day (many places shut down for the winter); just expect that the crowds will go with you.

There are only three wineries on the South Fork, so it’s good to have some other distractions planned for your trip. The south shore has fantastic beaches and all the associated water attractions — boating, fishing, and the like. Fire Island, the tiny strip of land that separates the Great South Bay from the Atlantic, has a lot of fun nightspots. Take a drive down Dune Road and ogle at the multi-mullion dollar mansions built on stilts to protect them at high tide. They wash away every couple of years — you can’t even buy insurance here any more, but somehow, people keep building them.

Stay at the Mill House Inn, in East Hampton (31 East Main Street, East Hampton, NY 11937; 631-324-9766; www.millhouseinn.com). This is a bed and breakfast that knows romantic doesn’t need to be cloying. Hubbardton Forge lighting fixtures, delicious leather couches and chairs and a style somewhere between Mission and contemporary. Splurge for the America’s Cup Room, which has its own deck, fireplace and kitchen area. You practically need a step stool to get into the beautiful, wrought iron featherbed. Ahhhhh.

The breakfast is to die for — in December I had a giant bowlful of blackberries that tasted like they had been picked that morning. You know it’s going to be a good day when your most difficult decision is which of 10 different kinds of omelet to have. Then, head out to the wineries and indulge yourself some more — don’t worry, this was a place created to serve guilty pleasures without the guilt.



Channing Daughters Winery
1927 Scuttlehole Road
Bridgehampton, NY 11932
631-537-7224
www.channingdaughters.com
Venture capitalist, wood sculptor and all around success story Walter Channing’s winery is located amid fields and a few of his larger-than-life sculptures, which give it an artsy charm reminiscent of some California wineries. Their lovely Sauvignon Blanc is grown on the North Folk’s Mudd Vineyard on some of the oldest vines on the island and bottled under the label “Channing Perrine.” The “Fresh Red” Merlot is a pleasant, young wine not unlike a Beaujolais. The light tannin and bright, fresh taste make it a good summer red that will take a chill nicely. The ’01 “The Sculptor” Merlot, by contrast, is an explosion of dark chocolate and raspberries.

Duck Walk Vineyards
Montauk Highway
Water Mill, NY 11976
631-726-7555
www.duckwalk.com
Duck Walk is another “long list” winery that’s experimenting with some interesting varietals and blends. They are responsible for the island’s first Pinot Grigio, grown right in Southampton, and they are the only vineyard on the East Coast to offer the unusual Pinot Meunier, which is most often used in sparkling wines. The ’02 Sauvignon Blanc has pleasant citrus notes that make it versatile for food pairing. I’m particularly drawn to Duck Walk’s interesting dessert wines, including a late harvest Gewürtz called Aphrodite that has a delicious flavor of summer peaches and the blueberry port, made from Maine wild mountain blueberries — never mind dessert wine, these are dessert.

Wölffer Estate
139 Sagg Road
Sagaponak, NY 11962
631-537-9080
www.wolffer.com
Forget all those things you’ve been told about “wine tasting” versus “wine drinking” and reserve an afternoon to hang out at Wölffer Estate. Sure you’ll get tipsy (the pours are almost embarrassingly large), but you’ll have a great time drinking some fantastic wines. The tasting room looks like an Italian villa, with a daunting set of stone steps, a fountain and a patina like autumn light on the walls. Inside, you’ll find chairs at the tasting bar and tables throughout the room, a beautiful view of the vineyards and fantastic stained glass doors. No wonder they hold so many weddings here.

Wölffer has gotten some impressive press lately, including having Food & Wine rate their Rosé one of the top 10 in the world and Wine Enthusiast call their perennial favorite La Ferme Estate Chardonnay “Long Island’s top Chardonnay.” I like what the staff member calls it even better: “butter in a bottle.” The ’01 Reserve Merlot is fantastic, with hints of licorice in the bouquet and a smooth, warm spiciness to the taste. The ’01 Pinot Noir is one of the more pricey bottles I come across in my Long Island experience, but worth it for its rich, Burgundian character. Wölffer’s Cuvée is served at the White House and state dinners, but it’s the vanilla scent that wins me over. For something unusual, try the Verjus. This non-alcoholic “green juice” is made from young grapes. Wölffer is one of the three vineyards in the United States currently producing it. You can use it as an alternative to vinegar in salad dressings or on the rocks with some vodka and lime for a summer aperitif. You have to respect anything that versatile.

My mom plans to retire off island in three years, head upstate. I’ve got three years worth of reasons to come back and buy wine. But I know I’ll be back long after she’s moved on — the vines will call me. And who am I to refuse an invitation like that?

Did you miss part 1? Then click here!